At the first glance, Capri wasn’t what I have expected at all. We arrived by the first morning boat from amazing Amalfi and were greeted by some heavy grey clouds.
After an hour voyage, when the island emerged from the fog I went up, to the open deck wanting some breath taking photos of Capri, but all I got was a few grey, shaky photos, due to the rough sea. Of course, Bozo wouldn’t follow me and said I was a lunatic…while all the other people were sitting in the comfortable lounge inside I was getting wet and dizzy catching “the view”.
Ok, I did get a glance of the famous “I Faraglioni di Capri”, but they were covered in a haze and morning fog, which was really nothing special L at that moment. After we disembarked at Marina Grande we took the funicular up the hill, to the center of Capri – the town. First thing you notice at the Piazzetta is a shiny glamorous Prada shop with a few interesting sculptures in front, but even that didn’t make me high on adrenaline. I was down, wet and cold. It was mid-July and I didn’t bring a sweater, or even a rain coat…..we were heading to the south of Italy, heavy rain was not a part of my plan.
My agenda was to find the meeting place, where the driver from our hotel was supposed to pick us up, but the rain, along with the strong wind, was getting so uncomfortable that we decided to look for a shelter and ask for precise direction. There were a few nice cafes on Capri’s main square, all with big parasols and tendas, already packed with people. The lucky ones were siting and drinking their hot chocolate, cappuccino or champagne, looking sympathetically at the rest of us. At that point, it was raining cats and dogs and look on Bozo’s face told me he was furious. We left his beloved Amalfi early in the morning to spend two days on a magnificent island of Capri and celebrate his birthday, all because “I was curious”. Plus, those two days on Capri could have bought us five days in Naples or Rome, since finding accommodation with a view, and a pool (a must for Bozo), during the high season is mighty pricey. My mood was sinking fast, too.
While staring at other people’s cups and plates and daydreaming, someone suddenly screamed! All the water from the top of one of the parasols poured over the poor boy’s head, and down his neck and then another one, and another one, and stampede started. All of us rushed to the next door café, squeezing and pushing people who already stood there…and of course, its own tenda also broke down releasing another wave of cold water over our heads. The situation just became grotesque. 🙁
Since we were all wet already, we decided to leave “our shelter” and head for the place where hotel van should wait for us. We were early, so we waited for another 10 minutes enjoying our first hour on Capri. Eventually, the van picked us up as promised, and we headed for the Marina Piccola, just on the opposite side of the Capri town. It was around 11 am, many people were checking out and I didn’t think we would get our room immediately, but to our great surprise, check in was fast, efficient and our room was ready. We changed our clothes and went to bed. I didn’t even bother to check the view. After a few hours of sleep and with rays of sunlight emerging from the curtains the rest of the day didn’t look so bad after all. Hmm…
Weber Ambassador Hotel, where we were staying, had a free shuttle service to the Piazzeta, from early morning until late in the evening, which was very convenient. This time, just a few hours after that terrible shower, the main square looked beautiful, colorful and just a place to be. We walked the streets eating expensive, but sooo delicious ice cream, admiring fancy shops, nice hotels and gardens full of lemons and flowers.
We visited Giardini di Augusto and sat there for a while, soaking up the view of I Faraglioni. I was a bit disappointed because famous, incredibly curvy Via Krupp was closed due to the renovation. Although, I think Bozo was relived. I had a plan to walk down the famous narrow street to Marina Piccola and then to our hotel. In my mind, and based on the maps I had been fanatically studying, it was a perfectly doable half an hour walk. Well, maybe an hour in our pace 🙂
Instead, we walked some more through the streets of Capri, ate great seafood pasta in the restaurant with the biggest lemons I have ever seen (Bozo ate pizza of course!) and I even did some shopping.
Can you guess?
Yes, I bought a pair of shoes (by some Italian designer) which, in some normal shopping conditions, would be quite expensive, but here in Capri, I had a feeling I had stricken a deal 🙂
We decided to have a dinner and some evening drinks at our hotel and took the free shuttle back. It was a great idea. The view was magnificent and we spent the romantic evening at the hotel’s terrace, overlooking the sea, beautiful yachts and I Faraglioni. At the end, it really did not disappoint.
The next morning, being such a morning person (and a curious one), I went for an early walk around Marina Piccola. I was even thinking about taking a swim, but it was a bit windy and not that hot, since the sun was rising and shining the other part of the island, so I didn’t after all.
After a great breakfast at the hotel, we went to Marina Grande to find a bus towards Anacapri. It was quite a long queue since the buses that operate on Capri Island are tiny, very slit so they could manage the narrow streets around the island, and they carry only 15-20 passengers. The sun was shining and Anacapri was worth the wait.
It was beautiful, with amazing views! A MUST when visiting Capri! We visited Villa San Michele, with its maintained garden, full of antiques and lemon trees. It is, by no doubt, my favorite place on the island.
We spent the afternoon wandering along Anacapri, bought many souvenirs, since the prices were much more affordable then in expensive Capri town. My little nephew Max still asks me about that yellow candy (lemon ones from Capri). We took the small bus back down to Marina Grande, where we boarded the last ferry to Naples.
If you find a bus stop, prior to the main one in the center of Anacapri, you can avoid the long line, and even sit and enjoy the view down the hill. That’s what we did 🙂
Was it all worth it and are two days enough?
Yes, we had amazing time on Capri, even with that rainy start. I would make it a three days trip, if doing it all again, just so we could have the chance to visit other nice sights, such as Monte Solaro and Grotta Azzurra.
Though our hotel was amazing, with THE VIEW and a great service, I would spend at least one night in Anacapri, since that little town took my heart away. I must return, at least for the lemon candy…